TITLE:
Safe Retinol-Like Skin Biological Effect by a New Complex, Enriched with Retinol Precursors
AUTHORS:
Ze’evi Ma’or, Dror Cohen, Ya’ara La’or-Costa, Meital Portugal-Cohen
KEYWORDS:
Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, β-Carotene, Skin, Inflammaging, Irritation
JOURNAL NAME:
Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications,
Vol.10 No.2,
June
1,
2020
ABSTRACT: Background: Retinol (RE) is deeply involved in skin processes, therefore it is widely
formulated in cosmetics, primarily as an anti-aging ingredient. Despite its efficacy, the safety profile of RE is
controversial. Objectives: Pretinol (PRE) complex was formulated with
two RE precursors, β-Carotene and
Niacinamide, in order to
deliver retinol-like skin benefits with healthier characteristics, assuming that skin enzymes will enable safe RE
supply on spot. Methods: The expression levels of hyaluronic acid, Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNFα) and Interleukin 1 alpha (IL-1α),
were measured using various skin models before and after
exposure to PRE and RE. Full genome microarray was performed and the affected genes and pathways were analyzed. Results: Following fibroblasts exposure to PRE, the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid
is significantly elevated. Skin
safety, demonstrated via cytokines expression on ex-vivo skin, results
with TNFα and IL-1α elevation by RE application. In
contrary PRE significantly reduces TNFα while IL-1α is not
affected. These results establish skin safety advantage of PRE vs RE.
Microarray results examined on skin equivalents reveal the involvement of PRE in inflammatory attenuation. Conclusions: Formulating
RE precursors as a safe source for RE is partially supported. PRE presents a
skin benefit in parallel to RE, while PRE characteristics are suggested to be
safer to skin.