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S. Elgar, C. Norheim, T. Herbers, “Nonlinear Evolution of Surface Wave Spectra on a Beach,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 28. No. 7, 1998, pp. 1534-1551. doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1998)028<1534:NEOSWS>2.0.CO;2

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