A Field Experiment on the Recurrence of Large Waves in Wind Seas

DOI: 10.4236/ojms.2011.13007   PDF   HTML     6,136 Downloads   10,930 Views   Citations


Wind generated sea waves are generally regarded as an example of pure randomness in nature. Here we give a proof that the matter is not exactly so: some identical sequences of relatively large waves were found many hours apart from one another. This finding supports the theory of quasi determinism of sea waves.

Share and Cite:

P. Boccotti, "A Field Experiment on the Recurrence of Large Waves in Wind Seas," Open Journal of Marine Science, Vol. 1 No. 3, 2011, pp. 69-72. doi: 10.4236/ojms.2011.13007.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.


[1] P. Boccotti, “On Ocean Waves with High Crests,” Meccanica, Vol. 17, No. 1, 1982, pp. 16-19. doi:10.1007/BF02156003
[2] P. Boccotti, “Some New Results on Statistical Properties of Wind Waves,” Applied Ocean Research, Vol. 5, No. 3, 1983, pp. 134-140. doi:10.1016/0141-1187(83)90067-6
[3] P. Boccotti, “Sea Waves and Quasi-Determinism of Rare Events in Random Processes,” Atti del'Accademia Nazionale dei Lince, Vol. 76, No. 2, 1984, pp. 119- 127.
[4] P. Boccotti, “On Mechanics of Irregular Gravity Waves,” Atti della Accademia Nazionale dei Lincei, Memorie, Vol. 19, 1989, pp. 110-170.
[5] P. Boccotti, G. Barbaro and L. Mannino, “A Field Experiment on the Mechanics of Irregular Gravity Waves,” Journal of Fluid Me-chanics, Vol. 252, 1993, pp. 173-186. doi:10.1017/S0022112093003714
[6] O. M. Phillips, D. Gu and M. Donelan, 1993. “On the Expected Structure of Extreme Waves in a Gaussian Sea. I. Theory and SWADE Buoy Measurements,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 23, No. 5, 1993, pp. 992- 1000. doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1993)023<0992:ESOEWI>2.0.CO;2
[7] O. M. Phillips, D. Gu and E. J. Walsh, “On the Expected Structure of Extreme Waves in a Gaussian Sea. II. SWADE Scanning Radar Altimeter Measurements,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 23, No. 10, 1993, pp. 2297-2309. doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1993)023<2297:OTESOE>2.0.CO;2
[8] P. Boccotti, “A General Theory of Three-Dimensional Wave Groups,” Ocean Engineering, Vol. 24, No. 3, 1997 pp. 265-300. doi:10.1016/S0029-8018(96)00013-3
[9] P. Boc-cotti, “Wave Mechanics for Ocean Engineering,” Elsevier Science, Amsterdam, 2000, pp. 1-496.
[10] P. Boccotti, “Quasi-Determinism Theory of Sea Waves,” ASME Journal Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Vol. 130, No. 2, 2008, pp. 1-9.
[11] F. Fedele and F. Arena, “Weakly Nonlinear Statistics of High Random Waves,” Physics of Fluids, Vol. 17, No. 2, 2005, pp. 1-10. doi:10.1063/1.1831311
[12] F. Arena, A. Ascanelli, V. Nava, D. Pavone and A. Romolo, “Non-Linear Three-Dimensional Wave Groups in Finite Water Depth,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. 55, No. 12, 2008, pp. 1052-1061. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.002
[13] F. Fedele and M. A. Tayfun, “On Nonlinear Wave Groups and Crest Statistics,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 620, 2009, pp. 221-239.doi:10.1017/S0022112008004424
[14] F. Arena, and C. Guedes-Soares, “Nonlinear High Wave Groups in Bimodal Sea States,” ASCE Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 135, No. 3, 2009, pp. 69-79. doi:10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000002

comments powered by Disqus

Copyright © 2020 by authors and Scientific Research Publishing Inc.

Creative Commons License

This work and the related PDF file are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.